These golden orbs are architecture made edible — delicate bulgur shells cradling spiced meat or mushrooms like precious gems in their settings. In Tehran, my grandmother would shape dozens for Nowruz, her weathered hands moving with the rhythm of decades. The art is in the shell: too thick and it overwhelms, too thin and it breaks. When you bite through that crisp exterior into the tender, aromatic filling, you taste the patience of generations.
This is meditative cooking — the kind that requires you to slow down, wet your hands, and trust the ancient technique of your fingers. The bulgur dough should feel like cool silk, pliable but never sticky. I prefer the mushroom filling for its earthy depth, though the meat version carries the soul of every Middle Eastern kitchen.
For the meat filling: Knead the ground beef with 2 tablespoons water until well combined — this creates silky texture. Heat oil in a large skillet and sauté onion until golden and fragrant. (The water helps break down the meat fibers for a tender filling)
Add the meat mixture, pine nuts, and all spices. Cook uncovered over medium heat, stirring frequently to break up clumps, until all liquid evaporates and meat is browned, about 10 minutes. Cool completely. (The filling must be completely dry or it will make the shells soggy)
For the mushroom filling: Heat oil and sauté onion until softened. Add mushrooms, tomato paste, and spices. Cover and cook until all liquid evaporates, about 8 minutes. Cool completely. (Fresh mushrooms work too — just cook longer to release their moisture)
For the bulgur shell: Combine bulgur, flour, breadcrumbs, and salt in a large bowl. Using your fingers, crumble and mix until uniform. Gradually add cold water, kneading until you have a soft, pliable dough that holds together without sticking. (The dough should feel like modeling clay — smooth and malleable)
With wet hands, take a walnut-sized piece of dough. Using your forefinger, create a deep indentation while rotating and pinching the walls thin with your other hand, forming a delicate thimble shape with intact walls. (Keep your hands wet throughout — dry hands will crack the dough)
Place 1 teaspoon of filling into each shell. Gently pinch the opening closed and roll between your palms to form a smooth, elongated football shape. Place on a lined baking sheet. (Don't overfill — the shells should seal completely without bursting)
Heat oil to 350°F in a heavy pot. Test with one kubbeh — it should sizzle immediately but gently. Fry 4 kubba at a time, turning frequently, until deep golden brown and crisp all over, about 6-8 minutes. (Don't crowd the pot — they need room to roll and brown evenly)
Drain on paper towels and serve immediately while the shells are still crackling hot. (These are best eaten fresh — the contrast of crisp shell and tender filling is everything)
Choose either meat or mushroom filling — this amount of dough works for one filling recipe, not both. These freeze beautifully before frying; cook straight from frozen, adding a minute or two to the frying time. In Damascus, they serve these with yogurt and fresh herbs, but they're perfect on their own as well.
Save this recipe to your collection
Sign up free
Comments