Make your dressing first, cher. Put all the citrus, oil, mustard, sugar, salt and pepper in a jar and shake it like you mean it until it's thick and creamy.
Taste and fix your seasoning — that balance of sweet, tart, and salt needs to sing.
Heat a wide heavy skillet over medium heat. Add your shrimp and the Pineau, stirring them around constant-like until they turn pink and curl up tight — maybe 4 minutes for big ones. (Don't walk away from these shrimp, baby. They go from perfect to rubber real quick.)
Pour that citrus dressing right into the hot pan with the shrimp and let it sizzle. Stir everything together, then fold in the crème fraîche gentle-like.
Arrange your greens on plates, then spoon those warm shrimp right over top with all those good pan juices.
Scatter that fresh lovage over everything and put lime wedges alongside. Serve with crusty French bread for sopping up every last drop.
If you can't find Pineau des Charentes, a good dry sherry or even white port will work fine. And if lovage ain't in your garden, fresh tarragon or chives will do right by you.
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