Wood-Fired Osso Buco

Build a medium fire using oak or fruitwood. Let it burn down to steady coals — you want consistent heat, not leaping flames. If cooking indoors, preheat your heaviest Dutch oven to 325°F. (Oak gives the cleanest flavor for long braises. Cherry adds subtle sweetness if you have it.)

Season the veal shanks generously with salt and pepper. Let them come to room temperature while your fire settles.

Set your Dutch oven over the coals at medium heat. Cook the diced pancetta, stirring occasionally, until crispy and the fat renders out completely. Remove to paper towels.

Keep 2 tablespoons of the pancetta fat in the pot, add olive oil. Dredge the veal shanks in flour, shake off excess, and sear them over higher heat until deeply browned on all sides — this is where the flavor builds. (Don't crowd the pan. Proper browning takes patience, but it's everything in a braise.)

Remove shanks to a plate. Add the diced carrot, celery, and onion to the same pot. Cook until the onions turn translucent, then add garlic, thyme, capers, olives, and anchovies.

Continue cooking the vegetables until they just start to caramelize — you'll smell the sweetness developing.

Return the pancetta and shanks to the pot. Pour in the white wine, scraping up any browned bits, then add enough stock to come halfway up the shanks.

Cover and move the pot to a cooler part of your fire setup, or into the 325°F oven. Braise for at least 2 hours, checking occasionally and adding more wine or stock if needed. (The meat should be fork-tender and nearly falling off the bone when done. More time only makes it better.)

For the gremolata, combine chopped parsley, lemon zest, and minced garlic. Mix this bright finishing touch just before serving.

Serve the osso buco over creamy polenta or risotto, spooning the rich braising liquid over everything. Top with a generous pinch of gremolata.