At Maketto in Washington, one of the must-haves is the scallion bread, a puffier-than-traditional take on scallion pancakes. The bread, which chef de cuisine James Wozniuk developed with owner Erik Bruner-Yang, proves that Maketto’s priorities are flavor and fun, not authenticity.
When Maketto opened in the spring, Bruner-Yang said, the bread was sent out by itself and wasn’t very popular. “Then we started serving it with the butter,” he said, “and everything changed.”
Stir together water, canola oil and 1 tablespoon melted unsalted butter in a liquid measuring cup. Sprinkle in the yeast; let it sit a few minutes until it foams.
Whisk together flour, baking powder, sugar and 2 teaspoons sea salt and in a bowl, then add the yeast mixture, stirring, to form a wet dough.
Lightly flour a countertop; turn out the dough and knead for 5 to 8 minutes, adding flour or water as needed. The dough should be smooth and elastic. Transfer to an oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let it sit in a warm place for about an hour or until doubled.
Use a fork to combine scallions, chili oil and 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt in a bowl to 8 tablespoons room-temperature unsalted butter. Add salt as needed. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Punch down the dough; return it to the floured countertop. Cut it into four equal portions; shape each into a ball.
Roll out one ball at a time to 1/8-inch thick. Melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and brush dough. Sprinkle with scallions. Fold the left one-third of the dough over into the center, and repeat with the right side, business-letter-style. Brush with more melted butter. Fold the bottom third up to the center and the top down. Dust with flour and roll out to a 6-inch round
Heat 1/2 tablespoon canola oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Cook one round at a time (adding new oil each time) until deeply browned on each side, 2 to 3 minutes per side, then bake for about 5 minutes, or until the bread puffs slightly and feels firm in the center.
Transfer to a cutting board and cover with a clean dish towel. Use your hands to gently crush it from the outside to separate the layers. Serve with the scallion-chili butter.
Originally publisned in the Columbian: columbian.com/news/2015/a...
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